This blog tells the story of Mitch & Sharon's adventures around South & Central America during the years 2010 and 2011 (hopefully!).
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu
We arrived in Cusco in the early hours of the morning and liked what we saw - not as impressive as Arequipa but still pretty cool. We checked into our hostel and began touring around the city to see what Machu Picchu trek we would do. We had it in our mind to do a jungle trek - which included hiking and biking but staying in hostels. As we wanted to get the true experience and camp all the way we settled on the Salkantay 5 day trek at a bargain price...we were happy. We met our group of 14 early the next morning and started our trek with our two guides - Miguel 1 and Miguel 2, and our two cooks - Vincente 1 and Vincente 2! Easy enough to remember. The first day was quite easy going...nothing too strenuous and got our muscles stretched out in preparation for day 2...which was slightly more strenuos (in the morning anyway). We rose early in the morning (woken at 6am with a hot cup of sweet coca tea) and began our trek up to the Salkantay glaciar (6271m high). Trekking uphill at 4,500m we quickly found it very hard to breathe and we were euphorious when we reached the top! After lunch we then trekked down into the jungle which was pretty awesome. It was quite an experience trekking next to a glaciar with wooly hats and jackets on all morning to stripping down to shorts and covering ourselves with mosquito repellant a few hours later. That night we camped down in one of the most beautiful surroundings - with little chicks running around our feet, horses neighing in the backround and the sound of gushing rivers below us. We savaged down whatever food was put in front of us, more coca tea and listened (painfully) for an hour to what Miguel 1 & 2 told us we'd be doing the next day. We had another trek through the jungle the next day (getting eaten alive by mosquitos) and finished off in the town of Santa Teresa. After lunch we were packed into a bus to go to the hot springs nearby. We weren't expecting much but boy were we smiling when we arrived. Hidden behind a rock quarry, and literally in the middle of nowhere next to a gushing river, it was a very strange sight. But we weren't complaining! We quickly dived into the roasting water to ease our aching muscles and were served by the side of the pool with ice cold beers at a very cheap price. We were very happy campers. 2 hours later we pulled ourselves out with hazy heads and dragged our asses back to camp for dinner. With pisco sours for 5 soles (£1) it seemed that tonight was the night to party...unfortunately not for me. Not long after arriving back I realised that it was my turn to have the funny tummy on this trek and spent the night bent over in pain in our tent (while Mitch partied the night away!) unable to eat. This carried on the next day but we powered through and with little energy made it to Aguas Calientes (where we found out there was a train strike so would have to hike back after Machu Picchu the next day). We all went out for dinner that evening...excited about the prospect of Machu Picchu the next day, the table was buzzing. Miguel 1 & 2 gave us another excruciating hour long chat about what we'd do the next day and just before we left to hit the hay after a very tiring day, Mitch & I were pulled aside to be told we weren't going to Machu Picchu...because our moronic company never transferred the money for our entry ticket! Well, anyone who knows me can only imagine the screams that errupted after this. Exhausted from 2 days of hiking with no food, I was LIVID. Mitch just stood there with his mouth open, unable to talk and visibly (I kid you not) shaking from head to toe with anger. Seeing as Miguel 1 & 2 were completely useless, Mitch took control of the situation, calmed me down, and found an internet cafe to get the number of our tour agency (yes, that would have been too organised for Miguel 1 & 2 to have!). He then called them, gave out a bit...handed the phone back to Miguel 2 when he couldn't understand what they were saying and an hour later, very stressed out, we were promised we would be going to Machu Picchu the following morning. Too tired to confirm this for sure we slumped back to our beds to get 4 hours of sleep before, we hoped, we would be trekking up to Machu Picchu. Fortunately (for Miguel 1 & 2...for they did not have to bear the full wrath of Sharon) we arrived up the 2 million steps to Machu Picchu at 6am the next morning and boy was it worth every aching muscle! It was the single most rewarding experience of our lives. There are no words to describe it. We suddenly got a burst of energy and after touring around the ruins for a few hours we practically ran up Wayna Picchu (the much steeper mountain towering over Machu Picchu) where another amazing sight greeted us on the top. If we wanted to catch the bus back to CUsco (as the trains were on strike) we would have had to leave pretty early that day to hike back so Mitch decided we were staying another night...we were going to enjoy it while we were here. So after we hiked down from Wayna Picchu, the whole group took a nap amongst the ruins and we lazed about the grounds until closing time - I think we spent 11 hours there altogether...the ticket people couldn't believe it! With smiling faces, we made the last trek down the mountain and made plans to meet everyone for dinner. We arrived back at the hotel to be greeted by a nice surprise - a friendly little man knocked on our door with train tickets for 9am the next day, an official apology from our tour company and an extra free night's stay in the hotel. We were gobsmacked! We couldn't believe it! So we celebrated that evening with a huge pizza, happy hour beers and a big lie in the next morning...until 8am!!
(pic 1: a very exhausted Sharon at the end of the day in Machu Picchu; pic 2: a very happy Mitch & Sharon with our entry stamps for Waynu Picchu)
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So glad you enjoyed it! Its pretty much the best thing i've ever seen - wish I was there seeing it again! Impressive recovery from a potentially very bad situation pre-machu pichu - sounds like you'll both finish this trip as king and queen of organisation! Look forward to being guided by you at christmas...
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